Sunday July 15th-Thursday July 19th
Improbable traverses of ridges with teetering rotten rock towers, the east ridge of Peak 13,300, and a surprisingly solid 100 foot high conglomerate tower at the junction of the continental divide and south ridge of San Luis Peak all provided technical rock climbing excitement and some anxiety from the danger of rotten rock.
Elk and deer were numerous above treeline as they continue to escape the heat and bugs below. I had a memorable camp perched above an alpine lake. I chose camp so I wouldn’t disturb a herd of 500 elk that was bedded down on the opposite side of the lake. The elk grazed in every direction around dark and some came right up to my camp. The numerous vocalizations of the elk were an exotic symphony for much of the evening and night with bugling, cow and calf calls, grunts, and squeals. In the morning a herd of 15 crossed the bench I was camped on within 40 yards while I ate breakfast to both our surprise! (See photo on mammal page).
The weather pattern has changed to afternoon showers with a lot of associated lightning. Putting in miles early and then dodging the lightning bringing thunderclouds has become my routine. On a daily basis I waited as long as 2 hours while the thunderstorms played out. With most of the snow melted away now, obtaining water has become the top camp priority. In the Cochetopa Hills I descended two miles to get water on the last morning. Adding 4 miles onto my daily mileage was not exactly what I had in mind when I set off looking for water.
Descending into the Cochetopa Hills from the San Juans provided a change from being above treeline continually to walking in a subalpine forest with Limber Pine, Englemann Spruce, and Aspen, and then lower in lodgepole pine forest. Walking on forested ridges was more straight forward than I had expected and I was able to make more daily miles than when traversing the 13,000 peaks up in the San Juans. Eating a few edible plants provided a small break from the monotony of my normal backpacking diet. Wildflowers continue a good showing as some species are tapering off and others getting going.
I joined the Continental Divide Trail Alliance for their Trail Days in Buena Vista and helped build trail with a very enthusiastic volunteer crew. This organization is in the process of getting the Continental Divide Trail built and is staffed by a positive, forward thinking group that brings in volunteers and sponsors to build this national scenic trail. Check them out.